With thousands of onsen scattered across Japan and so many towns that are famous for their therapeutic waters, it can be difficult to choose which hot spring to visit. For me, discovering Yunishigawa Onsen in Tochigi Prefecture was a moment of serendipity that brought lots of delights during a weekend getaway.
In the midst of my own decision paralysis, I ended up doing a sort of Google Maps roulette: search for “onsen” and see what comes up.
The results drew my eye north of Nikko (which always tempts me with its history and spiritual energy) and Kinugawa Onsen to the Yunishi River Valley, a place that appeared to be on the edge of serious wilderness. Beyond the town of Yunishigawa, it’s a vast stretch of mountains all the way past the border of Fukushima.
It’s no wonder that tucked-away Yunishigawa was the perfect hiding spot for the Heike (a.k.a. the Taira clan) nearly 900 years ago, after their defeat in the Genpei War.
If the joy of life is supposed to be about the journey and not the destination, then the relaxing trek to Yunishigawa was a reward unto itself. From Asakusa Station in Tokyo, Jason and I took the Tobu Railway Limited Express Revaty (東武鉄道特急リバティ) up the Nikko-Kinugawa Line to Yunishigawa Onsen Station, a 2.5-hour trip. Somewhere along the way, the ‘burbs melted away and the surroundings got greener and more mountainous.
The 20-minute bus ride from the train station into town fully got us into relaxation mode as we rode along the waterway that expanded into a peaceful, turquoise lake before narrowing back into a small river further into the woods. When we arrived at the little town, we were slightly astonished to find an established, historic place hidden so deeply amid the daunting forest landscape.
It’s no wonder that tucked-away Yunishigawa was the perfect hiding spot for the Heike (a.k.a. the Taira clan) nearly 900 years ago, after their defeat in the Genpei War.
By pure coincidence, we showed up just in time for the big summer festival, the Heike Taisai. I would have been content just to wander around the town on an ordinary weekend, but the special event gave it an otherworldly atmosphere as hundreds of people in historical costumes gathered for a parade through town, culminating in festivities at Heike no Sato, a charming open-air museum where you can stroll among lush trees and peek into thatched-roof houses from an earlier time. (Hopefully the festival will make its post-pandemic return in June 2023, along with the town’s wintertime Kamakura Snow House Festival, which runs from late January to late February.)
It was nice to be leisurely and random in Yunishigawa, spending some time wandering through Kuriyama Forest Park, where a weathered wooden shrine and some centuries-old trees serve as quiet reminders of previous generations who protected this place. We crossed a suspension bridge halfway and stood there at midpoint, watching the water flow below as a cool breeze made us almost feel like we were flying.
Back at our ryokan, Ageha, we were charmed by the unpretentious, friendly, cozy atmosphere. Although Ageha was founded in 1718 and is situated in a former samurai residence, the ryokan boasts modern amenities while still playing up its handsome folk-house details, with blackened wood ceiling beams, playful displays of antiques, and moody lighting cast by old-fashioned lanterns. Corridors are lined with lacquered wooden trunks and carved wooden ranma that have been repurposed as wall decor.
And we were especially delighted by the riverside private rotenburo, all connected by a covered corridor. Guests can use the baths freely, along with the large shared onsen in the main lodge. The refreshing sights and sounds of the river and the tall, swaying trees on the opposite bank made soaking in the steaming tubs even more relaxing. It felt so good to float for awhile in the open air.
Surrounded by nature and immersed in history, I found my moment of bliss in a remote town I’d never heard of, just by being open to the unexpected. It was a lesson I’ll always keep with me.